In Barcelona’s medieval quarter, a new generation of wine bars showcases minimal-intervention bottles alongside ambitious seasonal cuisine.
Living in an area replete in bars and wine, some of my favourite evenings have been in establishments dedicated to vinos naturales. El Born, a historical neighbourhood tucked between the Gothic Quarter and Ciutadella Park, is known for its medieval architecture and closely packed bars and restaurants. Though a well-known tourist haunt, wander into the warren of narrow, pedestrian-friendly streets and you’ll dodge crowds to find stylish spaces devoted to natural wine and seasonal menus to match.
While the term ‘natural wine’ can turn off classicists and sommeliers, what defines it is a philosophy of minimal intervention. That means little to no added sulphites and fermentation with the yeasts already on the grapes, allowing a more unique expression of a vineyard’s characteristics. To focus a bar on natural wine is to highlight localness, seasonality and individuality – and when this practice is imbued in the décor and gastronomic offerings too, well, find me on a bar stool with a glass of biodynamic Montsant and plate of locally cured seabass.
Bar Puntal
Tucked away in a tranquil plaza just off Carrer de Carders, Bar Puntal is my go-to for a copa on sunny afternoons and evenings. It’s warm and relaxed, with retro interior décor and a scatter of outdoor tables beneath parasols. The by-the-glass list includes orange – or skin-contact – wines, plus whites, reds and a rosé from across Catalonia and France, alongside a longer bottle list. Often, I’ll just ask the affable servers for suggestions to help me decide.
Small plates include contemporary takes on classic tapas like patatas bravas and sobrasada (spicy cured pork) with honey, plus a delectable house-smoked butter with sourdough. It’s often full – and outdoor tables go first – but you can arrive lucky, especially outside of prime hours.
L’Anima del Vi
Nestled in the shady, less-travelled streets by Jaume I metro station is this cosy bar-bistro with the gravitas of an old French wine cellar. All wines – chosen for their minimal-intervention viniculture – are purchased directly from the winemakers, many hailing from France, and staff are punctilious in their knowledge of every bottle, vineyard and flavour profile.
With unfussy décor, shelves of wine, and a small, rustic food menu written on a blackboard, this is an easy pause for after-work drinks and impromptu dinners that stretch into the night. No reservations, which means less-prepared folk have as much of a chance as anyone else.
La Vinya del Senyor
Directly opposite the gorgeous Santa Maria del Mar church, this traditional wine bar may heave with sightseers in peak season, but don’t let that deter you from its mighty wine list. With more than 20 wines by the glass, from €2 table whites to special pours at €50, this is one for wine nerds and explorers alike. There’s a focus on natural wines and local wines, with plenty from within Catalonia – including the well-known regions of Penedès, Priorat and Empordà — and wider Spain, as well as Hungary and Germany.
Pair your glass with a savoury bite from the menu that ranges from oysters and cured fish to pork cheeks in sherry sauce. If sitting outside feels busy, grab a seat at the interior bar, or head upstairs for a second-storey peek into the basilica.
Bar del Pla
This lively gastro-venue is where I take visiting friends for a cool spin on the classic tapas bar. It may be constantly packed, but a lot of fun when you make it in. The servers wear shirts proclaiming “F*ck Sangria — Drink Natural Wine,” and the wine list offers excellent reasons to follow this hearty suggestion. Wines by the bottle hail from Spain and France with a couple from Czech Republic and Germany, and the staff are happy to help you navigate their list.
As with all my favourite places, the robust food menu is a star in its own right – think croquetas and beef cheek alongside modern creations like ox tartar with foie gras or mushrooms in wasabi sauce. Don’t hesitate to go by-the-glass and check with the bartender for pairing recommendations throughout your odyssey. Bookings highly recommended.
Can Cisa / Bar Brutal
Moodily lit, a little pricier, and a sophisticated hideaway from the hustling on Carrer de la Princesa, this is among the best-known of the city’s natural wine gems. Bar Brutal is a much-feted restaurant serving an inventive menu based on local, seasonal ingredients; Can Cisa its attached wine bar. Though reservations fill up fast, I’ve swung by on weekend afternoons and scored a seat in the industrial-cool Can Cisa portion, snacking on a bar menu that includes elegant nibbles like mojama (air-dried tuna) with almonds.
There’s a thick tome of 700+ minimal-intervention wines to browse, or tap the equally encyclopaedic knowledge of your friendly sommelier. This, plus the chic décor, buzzy atmosphere and creative, locally sourced menu tends to attract foodies and special date nights. Bookings highly recommended for lunch and dinner, but for drinks only, walk-ins are the way.
