Crusader castles to ancient harbours, North Cyprus offers an unspoiled slice of Mediterranean life where Turkish and Greek influences create a uniquely Cypriot charm.
Stretching along the northern third of Cyprus, the Turkish Republic of Northern Cyprus (TRNC) remains one of the Mediterranean’s most intriguing destinations – recognised only by Turkey since its declaration in 1983. This sun-drenched region, separated from the EU-member Republic of Cyprus by the UN-controlled Green Line, offers visitors a distinctive blend of Turkish and Cypriot culture, ancient ruins, and pristine beaches, all at notably lower prices than its southern neighbor.
While the political situation may seem complex, visiting is straightforward for most travellers. Since 2003, crossing the Green Line has become relatively simple, with visitors entering either through easy checkpoints via the South or through Turkey, depending on their nationality. The region operates on Turkish Lira rather than Euros, uses Turkish mobile networks, and even has different license plates. Yet these quirks add to North Cyprus’s charm and crossing the border feels like entering a different world entirely, one distinct from typical Mediterranean destinations.
How to spend a weekend in North Cyprus
A weekend is ideal to get a taste of North Cyprus’ many charms. Begin your journey in Lefkoşa (Nicosia), the world’s last divided capital; here, the atmospheric walled city reveals centuries of history through its narrow streets, traditional hammams, and bustling bazaars. The ‘Green Line’ itself offers a fascinating glimpse into the island’s complex political history.
Just an hour’s drive north brings you to the jewel of North Cyprus: Girne (Kyrenia). This picturesque harbour town features one of the Mediterranean’s most photogenic scenes, with bobbing yachts and traditional fishing boats against a backdrop of the old town’s narrow alleyways.
DAY 1-2
LEFKOŞA
Lefkoşa’s best sights
At the heart of the walled city stands the magnificent Selimiye Mosque, a fascinating blend of French Gothic architecture and Islamic design. Originally built as the Cathedral of St. Sophia in the 13th century, it was converted into a mosque by the Ottomans in 1571, who added two minarets while preserving much of the original Gothic interior. Nearby, the Büyük Han represents Ottoman architecture at its finest – this beautifully restored 16th-century inn now houses artisan workshops and cafes in its atmospheric courtyard.
Don’t miss the restored Armenian Church, with its striking golden stone facade and dramatic pointed arches, or the Mevlevi Tekke Museum, which showcases the history of Cyprus’s whirling dervishes in what was once the island’s central meeting place for the Mevlevi Order. Its peaceful courtyard provides a quiet retreat from the bustling old town.
Lefkoşa’s best restaurants & bars
Dining in North Nicosia follows a distinctly local rhythm, with most Turkish Cypriot families eating at home and restaurants often closing by 8pm. However, the city harbours some genuine culinary gems. Hamur, set in a beautifully renovated house, offers excellent traditional meze in an intimate setting, with freshly cooked pastries and local specialties at remarkably reasonable prices. For a cultural pit stop, the historic Rüstem Kitabevi is a charming bookstore that dates back to 1937, its café-restaurant serving homestyle lunches in a bougainvillea-draped courtyard.
As evening falls, the city’s small but vibrant bar scene comes alive. The Walls Inn stands out for its impressive selection of local craft beers, offering tasting flights and the option to order börek from the neighboring Miss Türkan pastry shop. Meanwhile, Hoi Polloi, situated near the Büyük Han, boasts an expansive outdoor seating area shaded by trees, a relaxed atmosphere where you can sample local beers while watching the world go by, with the added flexibility of ordering food from nearby restaurants.
Lefkoşa’s best hotels
Accommodation in North Nicosia’s old town primarily consists of lovingly restored traditional houses, transformed into intimate boutique hotels by local families. These properties blend historic Cypriot architecture with modern comforts, often featuring traditional courtyards that provide peaceful sanctuaries from the bustling streets outside. Most are family-owned and operated, offering a level of personal service that larger hotels simply can’t match.
The Nicosia Eagle Eye Boutique Hotel exemplifies this approach, with its architect-owner carefully preserving original features while creating an oasis-like atmosphere in the heart of the old town. Similarly, TasEV Boutique Hotel offers a refined take on local style, a former Ottoman mansion from 1931 converted into a hotel, art gallery and café. Both properties feature tranquil courtyards, serve excellent breakfasts, and provide easy access to the city’s historic sites, perfectly capturing the intimate charm that defines Lefkoşa’s boutique hotel scene.
DAY 2-3
GIRNE
Girne’s best sights
Girne’s picture-perfect harbour forms the heart of the town, where a crescent of waterfront restaurants and cafes offers views across bobbing fishing boats to the commanding presence of Kyrenia Castle. The castle itself, a magnificent Byzantine structure enhanced by successive rulers from Richard the Lionheart to the Ottomans, rewards visitors with spectacular harbour views from its ramparts. Inside, you’ll find museums, dungeons, and a chapel, though the real highlight is walking the castle walls during the golden morning light.
The Old Town, wrapping around the harbour, provides a maze of atmospheric lanes to explore. Here, Ottoman-era buildings stand alongside remnants of the town’s Christian heritage. The waterfront promenade comes alive at sunset, when locals and visitors gather to stroll, dine, and watch fishing boats return with their daily catch.
Girne’s best restaurants & bars
Girne’s waterfront is lined with tourist-trap seafood restaurants, and its nightlife largely caters to a young, club-going crowd, but there are some genuine culinary gems to be found. Lagoon Fish Restaurant is the harbour’s only truly reliable seafood option, where the catch of the day is expertly prepared. Away from the waterfront, The Old Grapevine, housed in a traditional building draped with vines, has been serving classic continental dishes since 1972, including retro dishes like steak diane, beef stroganoff, and osso bucco.
For something sweeter, Mensure’s Coffee and Chocolate occupies a beautiful old stone building, serving decadent desserts and quality coffee in an antique setting. As evening falls, Ego Bar is set in the gardens of a magnificent colonial building, its vast outdoor courtyard offers a magical setting where you can sip cocktails while the evening call to prayer echoes across the old town – a uniquely atmospheric experience capturing Girne’s blend of cultures.
Girne’s best hotels
Girne offers a selection of boutique hotels that beautifully marry historic architecture with modern comfort, each with its own distinct character. Kyrenia Palace Hotel, dating from 1889, sits in the heart of the old town next to the castle. This recently restored mansion features thick stone walls, elegant arches, and a tranquil inner courtyard, while rooms combine antique charm with contemporary amenities. The high-ceilinged spaces and careful restoration create an atmosphere of refined historical elegance.
For those seeking a retreat from the bustle of town, Kemerli Konak Boutique Hotel offers a stunning alternative. Nestled between the Kyrenia mountains and the Mediterranean, this castle-like property provides a more secluded experience. The hotel’s grounds include a beautiful pool area, while the adjacent restaurant and café serve excellent local cuisine. Though slightly removed from the centre, its scenic setting and peaceful atmosphere make it perfect for those prioritising relaxation.
North Cyprus: How to Get There
Getting to North Cyprus requires some planning, as direct flights are limited due to the territory’s political status. The most straightforward route is flying to Ercan Airport (ECN) near Lefkoşa via Turkey, with regular connections from Istanbul’s airports. Alternatively, fly to the Republic of Cyprus and cross through one of Nicosia’s several checkpoints, either on foot or by car. It’s straightforward for tourists, though only a few rental car companies will allow you to drive on both sides.
North Cyprus: How to Get Around
Getting around North Cyprus is most conveniently done by rental car, giving you the freedom to explore the region’s scattered attractions at your own pace. While some rental companies allow you to drive on both sides of the island, you’ll need to purchase additional insurance in the north — an easier option might be to rent after crossing the border, with fuel costs significantly lower on the Turkish side. Public transportation exists in shuttle buses between major towns, but services can be infrequent and uncomfortable, especially during summer heat.
